SoCal Hiking and Peakbagging » Blog Archive

CO 14er: #7/54

Elevation: 14,014 ft.

Date Hiked: 8-26-2007

Trip Report:
North Maroon peak is considered one of the more difficult 14ers to climb. This along with its higher neighbor are known as the Maroon Bells. Supposedly they are among the most photographed mountains in the world. The standard route to the summit of North Maroon is class 4 and involves a steep climb along loose rock.

The North Face of North Maroon Peak

My friend Joda and I left Lakewood and made the drive to Aspen over Independence Pass. We saw many 14ers along the way including La Plata Peak.

La Plata Peak

We got to the trailhead at Maroon Lake around 8 PM and quickly fell asleep. We woke up at 2:30 AM and got ready for a long day. The moon was not out but the stars were bright. It was not very cold all I wore was a long sleeve shirt and shorts. We made our way quickly to the turn off for North Maroon Peak before Crater Lake. We saw a few deer along the way with our headlamps, I think they were as surprised to see us as we were to see them. After the cutoff there was a little bit of easy scrambling to get to the rock glacier. Once up to the rock glacier we took a break. It was a beautiful night, we could hear the stream we had crossed a few minutes before and nothing else. We were they only ones for miles around (at least thats how it seemed). We started off again following strange orange markers on the rocks.

Rock Glacier Markers

Once through the rock glacier the eastern sky began to light up. We could also see a few headlights from people traveling the same route we had not to long before.

Sunrise

We traversed the side of the mountain along a well worn use trail. The route was also well marked and easy to follow along the lower mountain. The sun rose and illuminated the walls around us.

Northeast Ridge

Before we entered the first gully we saw a few mountain goats enjoying the sun, they didnt seem to be bothered that we were so close to them.

Mountain Goats

We made our way up through both of the gullies and onto the actual ridge. We stopped only a few times to rest and enjoy the views.

South Maroon Peak

Eventually we crested a large ledge before the 4th class chimney. I stopped here to take in the views and admire the two famous 14ers across the way.

Snowmass Mountain and Capital Peak

We could see down the rock glacier where we had come up earlier in the dark. It was amazing being so high and being able to see the entire route we had traveled. We could also see South Maroon peak which seemed so close.

Rock Glacier

South Maroon Peak

The Upper Mountain

We kept climbing higher and made it quickly past the 4th class chimney, it was a little wet which made it interesting. From the top of the gully it was a sort climb to the summit.

Final Stretch

We summited around 9 AM and took in the views. We had originally wanted to traverse to South Maroon but were both tired and decided to leave that for another time. Instead we took an hour nap on the summit. This was the first time I had ever slept on top of a 14er.

Capital Peak

Snowmass Mountain

South Maroon Peak

Myself on the Summit

People on South Maroon Peak

After I woke up we decided to head down. We quickly descended the ridge back to chimney. We could have found an easier way down but decided it would be fun to repel down the chimney. Joda set up the rope and I went first. It was the first time I had done this in the mountains and it was a blast.

Joda Descending

Pyramid Peak

The 4th Class Chimney

Me on the Ridge Looking back at the Summit

Getting Ready to Repel

Starting Down

Halfway Down

Finally at the Bottom

Looking Back Up

Once we finished the repel we gathered our gear and made our way down. We crossed both the second and first gully and eventually made our way to the rock glacier.

The Second Gully